Do this first

  1. Dry the rail completely and put white paper underneath it. The colour of the first water that appears is the diagnosis, so do not wipe it away again before you have looked.
  2. Close both valves at the bottom of the rail, thermostatic head off and lockshield closed clockwise, counting turns.
  3. If the rail is dual fuel or electric, deal with the electrics first. Switch off at the fused spur or the circuit at the consumer unit before you handle a wet element, and do not run an electric element on a rail that is losing its water, because the element is designed to be immersed.
  4. Look at the blanking plug and the bleed plug at the top corners. These are the two most common leak points and they are often only finger-tight.
  5. Check where the rail meets the wall brackets. A rail that has been used as a grab handle flexes at the joints.
  6. Do not keep repressurising the boiler to hold the system up while it drips.

Clear water at a fitting, or stained water from the tube

Towel rails fail in two ways and they look nothing alike once you know what to look for.

What you seeCauseOutcome
Clear or lightly tinted water at a valve, blanking plug or bleed plugSeal, washer or thread compound has failedReseal or replace the fitting. Minutes.
Dark, iron-stained water appearing on the tube itself, often with a rust tear-mark down the chromeA pinhole corroded through the tube wall from insideReplacement rail. Nothing tightens this.
Water only when the heating runs, at a compression joint below the railPipework joint under thermal movementRemake the joint
Drips forming on a cold chrome rail in a steamy bathroomCondensation, not a leakVentilation
Weeping around an electric element bossElement sealIsolate electrically first, then replace the element or the rail

Chrome towel rails corrode faster than painted steel radiators for two reasons: the tube wall is thin, and bathrooms are humid, so the outside is working against them as well as the inside. A rail that has pinholed once will usually pinhole again within a year or two, which is why patching one is a false economy even when someone offers to. If the whole system is dropping pressure and the rail is the only thing you can see, check the rest: a boiler that keeps losing pressure is often losing it in more than one place, and a leaking radiator elsewhere behaves the same way.

What the repair involves

A fitting leak is isolated at the valves, the plug or valve is removed, cleaned and resealed or replaced, and then tested hot, because a seal that holds cold can weep once the metal expands. A rail replacement means draining the rail, removing it from the brackets, checking the wall fixings, fitting the new rail with new tails and valves, refilling, venting and re-pressurising, and where the old rail was a different height or centres, making good the tiling and decoration behind it.

That last part matters more in a bathroom than anywhere else. Pulling a rail off a tiled wall usually takes some tile with it, and the fixing centres of the new rail rarely match the old. We deal with the tiling, the plasterwork and the decoration as part of radiator and valve leak repair, and if the water has gone down through the floor into a room below, that gets made good too.

When it is not us

  • Nipping the blanking plug up stopped it. That is the fix. Do not overtighten a chrome plug, because the threads strip easily.
  • Beads of water on a cold rail in a steamy bathroom. Condensation. Run the extractor, not a plumber.
  • Cold rail, no leak, rest of the house warm. Air in the rail, or a closed lockshield. Bleed it and rebalance.
  • The electric element has failed and there is no water leak. That is an electrical repair or a new element, and the electrical side of a dual-fuel rail belongs to an electrician.
  • You rent. Report it in writing to the landlord or agent. Heating installations are theirs.
  • You simply want a different rail. A straight swap with no leak is planned work that any heating installer can price.