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Ideal Boiler Losing Pressure: Finding Where the Water Goes

A sealed heating system is closed, so an Ideal boiler that needs topping up more than once or twice a year is losing water rather than pressure. Ideal themselves say a system needing frequent top-ups should be checked by a professional. The overnight gauge test below tells you whether the loss is continuous or only under pump pressure, which decides where to look.

Leak Fix LondonLast updated

Thermal imaging survey being carried out to trace a hidden leak

Start with the gauge, not the boiler

Everything on an Ideal Logic, Logic Max, Vogue or Exclusive that people call a pressure problem is really a water problem. The circuit is sealed. The only water in it is the water the installer put in, plus whatever you have added since. If the number on the gauge keeps falling, litres are leaving the building's pipework, and the boiler is simply the thing that noticed.

Ideal's own faults guidance is short on this and useful: if the system requires topping up frequently, it needs to be checked by a professional to find the source of the pressure loss. This page is about doing the first half of that yourself.

The overnight test

Ten minutes of your attention, spread over a night, and it narrows the search more than any amount of guessing.

  1. Top the system up cold to 1.2 bar, within the 1 to 1.5 bar band Ideal specify, and close the filling loop fully.
  2. Turn the heating and the hot water off completely. Write the reading down with the time.
  3. Read it again in the morning, still cold, before anything runs.
  4. Now run the heating for a full cycle and read it once more, cold again, that evening.
What the gauge doesWhat that points at
Holds overnight, holds after a heating cycleNot currently leaking. Air release from a recent refill, or a one-off.
Holds overnight, drops after the heating runsA leak on a circuit that only pressurises under pump head, or a relief valve lifting. Often a buried run or an underfloor loop.
Drops overnight with everything offA continuous leak. Somewhere water is running out of the system every hour of the day.
Climbs high when hot, falls below the start when coldExpansion vessel, not a leak. See below.

The four places an Ideal system loses water

1. The pressure relief discharge pipe

A copper or plastic pipe emerging through the outside wall near the boiler. If it drips when the boiler fires, or shows limescale streaking down the brickwork beneath it, the system has been venting through the relief valve. Either the valve is passing on a dirty seat, or the expansion vessel has failed and the valve is doing its job. Check this before anything else, because it is the one loss that leaves no damage indoors and the one people never look at.

2. Joints, valves and the boiler case

Radiator valve spindles, the tail nut where the valve meets the radiator, towel rail welds, and the pipework inside the boiler case itself. Small weeps evaporate off warm pipe and leave a green or white crust rather than a puddle, so look for staining rather than water. A dry tissue run around each joint finds what a finger misses.

3. Under the floor

The common one, and the reason detection exists. A pinhole in a 15mm copper pipe under a screed or chipboard floor can drop the gauge weekly for months with nothing visible above it, because the screed absorbs the water and the heating dries the surface. Nail and screw strikes from a previous floor covering are a frequent source, and so is corrosion where copper has been laid in contact with screed without sleeving.

4. Underfloor heating circuits

If part of the house is on underfloor heating, that is a lot of buried pipe and a lot of connections in a manifold cupboard. Start at the manifold, which is accessible, before assuming the loop is at fault. We cover this on the underfloor heating leak repair page.

The expansion vessel, which is not a leak at all

If the fourth row of the table above is yours, stop looking for water. A vessel that has lost its air charge leaves the system with nowhere to put the expansion when it heats, so pressure spikes, the relief valve lifts, and the system comes back cold with less water than it started with. Nothing is leaking into your building. That is a recharge or a new vessel, and it is worth confirming before anyone opens a floor, because it is cheap to fix and expensive to misdiagnose.

Why the habit of topping up makes it worse

Ideal note that a newly filled system releases dissolved air over the following weeks, which causes an ordinary pressure drop. What they do not spell out is the cost of doing that repeatedly. Every refill introduces fresh, oxygenated mains water into pipework and radiators that had long since used up the oxygen in the original fill. Oxygen plus steel means corrosion, corrosion means magnetite sludge and more pinholes, and more pinholes mean more topping up. A weekly filling-loop habit is not a workaround. It is a slow way of turning one leak into several.

Finding it without taking the floor up

The system is isolated and pressure-tested first, which proves the loss is real and gives a rate. Then the run is traced: acoustic listening on accessible pipework, thermal imaging to follow warm pipe through screed and tile, moisture mapping to show how far the water has spread, and tracer gas on a drained circuit, which is non-invasive and finds what thermal imaging cannot see through insulation or depth. Only when the leak has a position does anything get opened, and then at one point.

Our rate is £150 per hour, agreed before the visit, and if we do not find the leak you do not pay for the time we spent looking. When it is found we repair the pipework and make the floor, screed, plaster or ceiling good afterwards, which is the part most detection firms hand back to you. See boiler and heating leak repair, gas tracer leak detection and our pricing.

If your boiler is showing a code rather than just a falling needle, the F1 fault code page covers what Ideal mean by it.

Frequently asked

How often should an Ideal boiler need topping up?
Once or twice a year at most on a settled system. Ideal ask for a professional to find the source of the loss where a system needs topping up frequently, and a recently filled system is the only common exception, because it releases dissolved air for several weeks.
My Ideal loses pressure only when the heating is on. Why?
Because part of the circuit only reaches full pressure when the pump runs. That pattern points at a buried run or an underfloor loop rather than a visible joint, and sometimes at a relief valve lifting under the extra pressure.
Can a leak lose pressure without leaving any damp?
Yes, and it is the usual case under a solid floor. Screed absorbs the water and the heating in the pipe dries the surface above it, so the gauge falls for months before anything shows. By the time a board lifts or a ceiling stains, the leak is old.
How do I know it is not the expansion vessel?
Watch a full cycle. A failed vessel makes pressure climb sharply when hot and settle below the cold starting point afterwards. A leak drops the reading steadily regardless of temperature. The two are separated by a pressure test rather than by looking.
What does it cost to find a heating leak?
We charge £150 per hour, fixed before we attend, and if we do not find the leak you do not pay for the time spent looking. Most heating circuit losses are located well inside a morning.

Sources

No find, no fee · £150 per hour. The rate is fixed before we attend and does not rise for a difficult property, an awkward access or an evening visit. The total depends on how long the job takes; the rate cannot change.