The noise table
Work out when the noise happens before you work out what it is. Timing separates six of these seven cases on its own.
| Noise | When | Usual cause | A leak? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single loud bang or knock | The moment a tap, washing machine or dishwasher valve shuts | Water hammer: a pressure surge with nowhere to go | No |
| Rattling or repeated knocking | While water is running | A pipe not clipped, moving against a joist or wall | No |
| Steady hiss or whoosh | Continuous, with everything off | Water escaping through a small opening under pressure | Yes |
| Trickling or running water | Continuous, with everything off | Water moving where there should be none, or a passing valve | Usually |
| Whistle or squeal | Only while one outlet runs | A restriction: limescaled aerator, worn washer, partly closed valve | No |
| Gurgling | After a sink, bath or WC empties | Drainage venting, often a failing air admittance valve | No, but see below |
| Ticking or creaking | As the heating comes on and goes off | Pipework expanding through a joist notch | No |
One clarification on gurgling. It is a drainage noise, not a supply leak, so it is not our job as a detection call. It does sometimes travel with a smell and a damp ceiling below, and that combination is worth reading about in why a bathroom smells of drains.
Banging: what is actually happening
WaterSafe, the UK register of approved plumbing businesses, lists the causes of banging pipework directly. Faulty ball valves can generate noise. If pipes are not clipped correctly, they may move and hit against walls or flooring. If air is trapped at the stop tap, this can cause the pipes to vibrate and produce a hammering or banging sound. Loose fitting washers, or jumpers, in stop taps do the same.
Underneath all four is the same physics. Water in a pipe has momentum. Close a valve quickly and that momentum has to go somewhere, so it becomes a pressure spike that travels back down the pipe and shakes anything not firmly held. Modern solenoid valves in washing machines and dishwashers close far faster than a hand-turned tap, which is why the problem often appears the week a new appliance is installed and nothing else has changed.
The plumbing regulations treat this as a design requirement rather than a nuisance. Schedule 2 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 requires at paragraph 3(b) that fittings be constructed of materials of such strength and thickness as to resist damage from any external load, vibration, stress or settlement, pressure surges, or temperature fluctuation, and at paragraph 4(d) that water fittings be adequately supported. A pipe that bangs is a pipe that is not adequately supported, or a system with surges it was never designed to absorb.
What you can do about banging yourself
- Identify the trigger. Run each tap and each appliance in turn and note which one produces the bang. If it is one appliance, the fix is at that appliance.
- Check the cistern. Lift the lid on the WC and watch it refill. A ball valve that chatters or slams as it closes is the classic cause of a bang heard all over the house. A replacement float valve is a cheap part.
- Open the stop tap fully, then close it a quarter turn. A partly open stop tap creates turbulence and a loose jumper inside it rattles.
- Clip what you can reach. Pipes under a bath, in an airing cupboard or under floorboards you can lift should be held every metre or so on horizontal runs. WaterSafe's advice is to ensure pipes are properly secured with brackets or clips.
- Pad where pipes pass through timber. A pipe sitting hard in a joist notch transmits every surge into the floor. Felt or foam in the notch removes most of it.
- Consider a pressure reducing valve. WaterSafe suggests one to regulate the flow and protect the plumbing system from stress, and it is the right answer where incoming pressure is genuinely high.
None of that is a job for a leak specialist, and we would rather tell you so than attend. If the banging persists after the cistern and the clipping have been dealt with, it is an hour of a general plumber's time.
